Installing Metal Roofing Panels!
Watch me install a new metal roof on the Eco-Ranch. There are installation tips and a pretty nice finished roof!
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23, Periyanna St, Erode-1.
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Our Location
23, Periyanna St, Erode-1.
Call Us
+91 97867-56158
Working Time
24 x 7 x 365 Days
There’s a big lack of agreement on YouTube about the spelling/pronunciation of “purlin.”
I know…. but so long as we know what we mean….. forget the turmoil!
THank you i am gonna do mine Soon!
I appreciate the encouragement you give people to try things and expand their horizons. Thanks for showing us your roofing installation.
great video I enjoyed it I am trying to install a wall using r-panels thanks for the tips, I live in San Antonio, Texas
An honest man. Thanks
Good quality building structure and roof panel
Absolutely brilliant vid.
Exactly what I was looking for !
Very informative.
Only question is how do you insulate/ thermal control?
Thank you! At first, we saved Styrofoam from local businesses: packing peanuts, corners, sheets any type we could use. Then, a friend had salvaged a huge amount of roll insulation from an industrial building that was being demolished and we jammed it between the roof and the ceiling. Out here, humidity is not an issue, so we can get away without roof sheathing or a vapor barrier. For the rest of the roofs though, we will use spray insulation to cover everything under the metal.
I just reviewed this video and saw that of the 149 videos I have posted on YOUTUBE, this one got the MOST views by a WIDE margin! It is now November, 2017 and our completed roof is holding up wonderfully. Mueller Steel, the manufacturer, has come up with a great flexible adhesive for the seams that stops windblown water infiltration and holds the panels together if a “stitching” screw fails. I am using this on the rest of the roofing done AFTER this video. They did not have it when I bought this material.
When I noticed the number of views, I wanted to state and remind everyone that MY roof, would not pass approval for most building codes! I always tell people to research MANY sources when trying to learn how to DIY a project and NEVER take one person’s advice as gospel. Every project is different and the weather, livestock animals, insects, or whatever, seldom read or watch the same source you have studied, so they may act differently than you expect!We live in this part of Texas BECAUSE there are no building codes nor code enforcement officers. It allows us to build our compound with native rock, glass bottles and none of those annoying GFI electrical outlets. But although my roof is strong, stable and leak-proof, it would not pass most inspections because there is NO UNDERLAYMENT! When I installed the first sections of the roof, I could not afford OSB or plywood because it was right after we invaded Afghanistan & Iraq. Most of the country’s OSB & plywood was going there for our troops. What remained here was 4-5 times more expensive than it is today. It was cheaper for me to double the size of the perlons (perlins), rather than use plywood/OSB, by a wide margin.
I could also get by without underlayment because of our low humidity here, moisture vapor is not an issue for us. With nearly 200,000 views, I wanted to explain this and remind you to watch and read everything you can about every project and NEVER take a “journeyman’s” or other persons advise solely. Everything I build here, I overbuild, because in the not-too-distant future I will be too old to repair it! Always treat a building code or manufacturer’s recommendation as a MINIMUM! Money spent overbuilding is never wasted!
Good work sir
I’m roofing my home now. Just finished up installing solar foil and lathing strips. After fouling-up in the beginning, I’m finally on my way. So far, so good!
Keep going!
At 8:54 the rooster said that’s what she said.
Looks pro mister thanks for vid
Thats true not only looks great but you did it by ur self my hat off to u sir
Thanks! It seems that in some parts of the country, folks use the ridges, not the flats to attach the steel panels to the roof. I have had some particularly nasty trolls try to comment about my “ignorance” because I did not put the screws on the ridges. While that MAY be the way in some areas, this steel (and the polycarbonate greenhouse panels) MUST be attached at the flats, per the manufacturer’s specifications (https://www.muellerinc.com/) I would suggest that people understand regional requirements BEFORE leaving their “educated” opinion on ANY video!
This IS a professional installation….. THANK YOU!
What is the tile?What,s the material?
It is typical painted, galvanized metal roofing panels.
How thick was the metal, what gauge? Thinking of doing something similar on a chicken coop. Checked into some metal panel that are 29 gauge but to me seem too thin to have the purlins 24″ apart.
+eco-ranch.us In north Florida, I set some of the panels on 36″ centers. THESE were not strong enough to walk on, but they stood up to 9 tropical storms and hurricanes….. you just had to step on the perlons!
+JohnAndrew My panels are 26 gauge, I just checked. There is a small amount of give when you walk on the roof, but nothing to worry about. The perlons are set on 24″centers, but I use 2″x4″s so there is actually just 20 1/2 ” between them.
nice job on the roof. I have done a lot of metal roofing. it tends to get just a bit warm up there lol. its always good to do it yourself too. a lot of satisfaction once your finished.
Thank you!
Thanks for the video. I think it was great, and more than enough times did you say this may not be exactly correct but this is why you were doing it the way you did. You said you were going back and doing 24″. I heard you!. Anywayyyyy I keep getting these ridiculous estimates on a metal roof and they all do it a different way so the more I watch guys like you the more I know we can do it our self. Keep up the great attitude and sharing that also.
+Jody Walker Jody, “codes” vary from state to state and in the beginning, before the “butt-crack building/code enforcement inspectors” they served a great purpose. Bu the construction industry as a whole has morphed that into a costly debacle that is designed to force most people into hiring people from the “trades” that pay the “butt-cracks” for enforcing ridiculous regulations.
My original roof, not the one I videoed, which is 50% stronger, stood up to a “haboob” wind that went from about 10 MPH to over 90 MPH in a matter of seconds AND carried dirt with it that further weighed down the air. It was NOT built up to the “Florida Uniform Building Code” that I studied and try to apply here. Florida’s is based on (where we lived) withstanding 140 MPH hurricanes. My roof would have done that, but it was engineered differently than a Florida roof would have been, because we have very low humidity here and I could save material and money this way.
Bottom line it that the guys who are quoting you prices, may be quoting based on conforming to your building codes. If you can do it yourself, roof joists that are 24″ on center, like mine, are substantial and will stand up to hurricane winds, PROVIDING that you also use 2″x4″ perlons, or 3/4″ plywood sheathing with 2 1/2″ screws that screw into the joists. EVERYTHING, EVERYWHERE should have hurricane straps on the joists, both sides, with nails or screws in every hole. “Twisty nails” are a great idea as well. If starting from scratch, designing the build so that the joists line up with the roof studs adds strength, but forces you to use 2″x6″ studs in order to line up to the 24″ roof joists. This is a good idea anyway if the structure is “stick-built”.
Either of these will stand up to anything Nature can throw at you. But so long as the “butt-cracks” are out there, you MAY have to conform to building codes. We do not here, unless we hire the job out, then it must be permitted and inspected. DIY is exempt.
Roofs are the most vulnerable structural member and must be built strong, regardless of any “codes”. I try to overbuild. Occasionally, someone will comment, like one did below about the 24″ span that he thought should have been 16″, but there is a plan here and part of that plan is to withstand an EF2 tornado. This structure will and using 2″x4″ perlons allows one to move the span to 24″.
Good luck to you and keep watching, we are about to start on the house walls and rooms!
Hey Robert, Do you know what two head sizes you had to switch between when doing this job? Hex sizes?
1/4″ tied the panels to the roof and 5/16″ stiches them together. I think the 1/4″ were 2″ long.
That’s vary good thanks for your
looks like you spanned your 2×6 rafters pretty far buddy, and purlins should be 2′ on center to be safe.
+bill keller Rafters are 24″ apart, fine for this job. Purlins ARE 24″ apart AND are 2″x4″, far more than necessary for the roof. The error was in the headers, which needed to be 2″x8″, not the 2″x6″ I initially used. I have strengthened these. That roof has stood up to several 70+ MPH gusts AND one 0-90 MPH in 15 seconds, “haboob” that hit the weak side, ENE. There was also a 4.0 earthquake. The roof is sound.
Thanks for the video! It helps to double check youtube when your second guessing your self! Lol